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What's your car worth as a trade? What's it worth
retail? Find out below!
About trade value
About retail prices
To sell yourself or not to sell yourself
What to consider in figuring an appraisal value
Find trade-in value for your car
Find retail price for your car
Why is my car not worth what I think it is?
ABOUT TRADE
VALUE
- Most people associate the term trade-in with rip-off.
And, let's be honest here, car dealers have a reputation for trying to be
less than fair about paying you for your car. But, let's also be
honest about something else: you want the most for your trade AND you
want to pay the least for your new car.
- Trade value can be determined in two ways:
- Trade allowance: The traditional method of trade
appraisal. Often shown as the difference between the retail
price of the car you are purchasing and the actual cash value for
your car. It can be very difficult for you to know exactly how
much your car is worth if you only focus on the difference figure:
How much is discount from retail and how much is actually for your car?
You know you are dealing with a difference figure when the value
of your car is dependent on what vehicle you select.
- Actual Cash Value (ACV): What your car is really
worth on the wholesale market. ACV is determined by several
factors including: general condition of the car, documented
service history, body damage, past paint and/or body work, windshield
damage, smoke odor, miles, treadware remaining on tires and general
popularity of the car. Both Edmunds
and Kelley
offer excellent step-by-step guidelines for determining the condition of
your car. When you figure condition, be honest and you'll
have a more realistic idea of what your car is worth.
- Saturn uses the ACV process. In other words, we'll buy your
car from you for the price we quote you even if you do not buy a car from
us.
- IMPORTANT: When comparing a trade from a Saturn dealer with a
value from another source you MUST confirm that the figure is ACV. Ask
the source (dealer, friend, etc.) if they are willing to buy the car from
you even if you do not buy a vehicle from them. Also, if the value of
your trade is dependent on the vehicle you purchase, you are getting a
difference price and you cannot compare the difference price with the Saturn
ACV price.
- For more on the Saturn Used Car Process, check out the main Saturn
page.
WHOLESALE
VS. RETAIL PRICE
Understanding the difference between a wholesale price and a retail price
saves you a lot of grief if you consider trading your vehicle.
- WHOLESALE VS RETAIL:
- Wholesale price is the price a
vehicle sells for at an
auction.
- Retail price is the price
paid by a consumer for a vehicle from either a private owner or a
dealer.
- WHAT'S THE DIFFERENCE?
- Wholesale vehicles are usually sold AS IS with no warranty
and no work done to the vehicle.
- Retail value usually means the vehicle has a warranty and/or
has a documented repair record. Someone, either a private
owner or a dealer has put time and money into the vehicle and is
standing behind the work and the vehicle for a period of time, usually
30 days.
- Wholesale vehicles incur many costs as they are prepared for
sale:
- Transportation to and from auctions, dealer lots, service centers,
etc.
- Re-conditioning costs including thorough cleaning, waxing, paint
work, dent removal and windshields.
- Major repairs including brakes, transmission and checks of all
major systems.
- Tire replacement.
- Complete oil, filter, transmission and other applicable services.
- Retail price from a dealer is almost always more than retail from a
private owner. Why? For most of the reasons just mentioned in the
previous item. The dealer pays to have the car fixed and must
stand behind the car with a warranty. Private owners do not (and,
in my opinion, should not) get into the business of fixing broken items
or offering a warranty (see more on this below).
- A wholesale purchase is made with the intent of reselling the vehicle,
after appropriate repairs, for a profit. A retail purchase is made
with the intent to own.
- CAN A DEALER SELL A CAR TO ME WHOLESALE?
- Nope. In Maryland, a dealer is required by law to
put at least a 30 day/1500 mile powertrain warranty on all used
vehicles. So, we can't sell a car to the public "AS IS."
- SUM UP, PLEASE:
- Okey-dokey.
- If you trade your car, you will get wholesale value.
- If you sell your car on your own, you can ask for retail
value.
- The retail price you get on our own will be less than a dealer
price.
So, do you trade or sell? For help, go HERE.
FACTORS TO HELP DETERMINE A TRADE
VALUE
- I recommend starting with the appraisal features of Kelley
Blue Book or Edmunds.
- When we appraise a car, here are some of the things we consider:
- Exterior:
- Paint Quality: Glossy or dull. Faded, cracked,
peeling. Do all panels match? Some chips and dents are normal
(especially around here) but an excessive number results in a
deduction.
- Tires: Less than 50% treadware and Satun replaces the
tires. In fact, tires are one of the more expensive items we
replace on used cars. Look for dry rot (tiny cracks in the sidewall
of the tire) or cupping (run your hand around the inside rim of the
tire and feel for scooped areas and then go wash your hands).
Tiny cracks indicate a car that has sat for long periods; cupped
tires indicate alignment problems.
- Accident damage: major dents, dings, scratches, bumpers that
need replacing. We'll use a paint meter that can tell if the
paint is original. We'll look for overspray (untaped areas
around damaged or repaired areas).
- Windshield: Cracked, starred or leaking.
- Interior:
- Cloth/Leather condition: burns, stains, rips, tears and all that
other good stuff.
- Odor: smoke and pets are the top two offenders. People
are less and less willing to pay for a used car that smells like
cigarettes.
- Engine, Transmission and mechanics:
- Appearance: if it looks bad, it probably is.
- Oil, transmission fluid (if applicable).
- Misses, hesitations.
- Transmission: does it shift OK? How is the clutch? Any
problems here are expensive.
- Steering rack, CV boots, wheel bearings.
- Leaking head gaskets, oil smoke, cracked engine blocks (ouch).
- Most major engine problems result in big deductions because of the
expense.
- Power features:
- Do all the power windows, locks and mirrors work?
- Keyless entry?
- Seats, sun roofs and any other power features.
- Other Things:
- Overall look of the car. Is it in good shape?
- Documented service history. We know that someone who takes
the trouble to change the oil on a regular basis, check the brakes,
hoses and belts and rotate the tires is going to have a better car
worth more money.
Be honest about the condition of your car. Ask yourself, "How
much would I pay for this car?" Think with your head, not your
heart. Unfortunately, the appraised value of an ordinary car does NOT
include all the emotional stuff that we associate with our cars. My
1989 Audi meant a lot to me, but that didn't change the fact that it was a
$1000 car. And when I sold it at auction in January '01, I got about
$900 after all was said and done.
FIND TRADE VALUE FOR
YOUR CAR
Please take time to read the fine print when using appraisal services.
Consider the numbers guidelines subject to market fluctuations. A used car
is a market commodity and is variable just like the stock market. What
does that mean? A number in a book may be too high for the actual auction
values in a region of the country; likewise, a number may be too low depending
on the market.
Things to remember:
- Be honest. Deduct for mileage, broken parts and paint work and/or
accident damage.
- If you do $2500 worth of repairs to a $1000 vehicle, it's still a $1000
vehicle.
- If you have receipts showing a consistent service history, your car will
be worth more wholesale.
- A clean car brings more money that a dirty car.
- A car with cigarette odor brings less money than a nonsmoker car.
- If the dealer sells your car to a wholesaler, the dealer will make little,
or more likely, no profit on your car. Why? Let's thing about
it: You trade your 1993 90,000 mile Taurus. The dealer's elects not to
fix, sell and warranty your car so a wholesaler takes the car to
auction. First there are transport fees to the auction. Second,
reconditioning fees prior auction. Third, auction fees including a
percentage of the sale price. Finally, the buyer of the vehicle must pay for
transportation away from the auction to another point of sale. So, you
can see that the costs can add up quickly.
- Dishonesty on the part of either the seller or the dealer can result in
very expensive mistakes. A dealer has a right to make a profit.
You have a right to a fair and honest trade appraisal.
Avoid surprises: Why your
car is sometimes not worth what you think it is:
One of the things I dislike about this business is telling good folks bad
news. Cars that have been dependable, reliable transportation are worth
much more to the owner than to me as a dealer. Why? Remind
yourself of the info above. Take this real
example: a 1989 Olds Calais S level sedan with 79,000 miles. Automatic
transmission with the (in)famous Quad-4 engine option. Paint is faded,
scared with dirt and debris and just generally worn out. Transmission
shifts OK but steering rack is binding in turns and will need to be
replaced. Inside, A/C works OK. Driver seat needs to be
replaced: hole in fabric and little support (just worn out).
Remainder of interior passable. How much would you pay? The owner wanted
somewhere around $1,000.00. The actual value? About $100.00.
Needless to say, the customer chose to go elsewhere. Keep in mind the
issues of reconditioning (the paint, interior) and auction/transport fees
plus any monies needed to make the car safe to drive. Can you see how a
$100.00 is probably about right? The emotional attachment, the
memories add value for the owner, but not for us. For those of you who
know me, I experienced the same thing with my 1989 Audi. The car was worth
a bunch to me, but the $850.00 is brought at auction was the actual, real value
for the car.
The bottom line? You want to pay a fair, retail price for the new
car so you should expect a fair wholesale value for your trade car.
Kelley Blue Book

Edmunds True Market Value
ABOUT
RETAIL PRICING OF USED CARS
- Retail: Retail price is the cost of the
vehicle from the dealer to the consumer.
- Factors that determine retail price:
- Market Area: Some cars are worth more in one part of the country
than another. Trucks are generally worth more in the west and southwest
than in the east. Regional differences also affect price.
Acura prices are usually higher in the DC area than in the surrounding
area.
- Fleet and leasing. Some auto makers allot high numbers of cars
for fleet, leasing and rental programs. As the cars come out of
service (off lease, out of fleet use) they get sent to auctions.
Large numbers of the same car drive prices down. For instance,
Ford puts many Tauruses into Fleet use (to help sales figures); when all
those cars come out of service the prices at the auctions drop and stay
down. The result is a lower price for all Tauruses.
- General quality and safety. Cars with a reputation for
reliability and safety retain more of their original value (less
depreciation). For example, Dodge Neons and most Hyundai and Kia
models lose a great deal of value due to quality and safety
concerns. Cars like Saturn, Honda and Toyota have better
reputations and histories and retain more value. As a result, a
1995 4-door automatic Dodge Neon can sell for $5995; the same Honda or
Saturn might be at least $2,000 more.
- Time of year: Convertible prices are highest in the Spring and
4x4 prices are generally higher in the Winter months.
TO
SELL THYSELF OR NOT SELL THYSELF: DECIDING TO TRADE OR SELL YOUR
VEHICLE ON YOUR OWN
Here- in no specific order - are some things to consider when deciding
whether or not to trade your car or sell it yourself:
- You will usually get more cash for your car if you sell it yourself.
- A dealer will always give you wholesale value for your
car. Selling it yourself allows you to get retail
value. Retail is usually $1000 - $1500 more than wholesale.
- How much is your time worth?
- Selling on your own can be time intensive.
- Prior to the sale, you must place the ad(s), clean the car, pay for
state inspection and fix any minor problems that you think might lower
the value.
- You will need to make appointments with prospective buyers. And,
trust me here, as surprising as it may seem, people do NOT always keep
appointments and they DO NOT always call and cancel.
- Playing a waiting game, Part I: How long do you wait before you
place your ad in different places? A week? Two weeks? Do you
have the time to let your car advertise for several weeks?
Remember, those ad costs lower your overall profit.
- Playing a waiting game, Part II: Suppose you get an offer, how
long do you let the person "think it over."
- Do you mind strangers having your phone number and address?
- Are you comfortable with strangers coming to your home and test driving
your vehicle?
- There are literally thousands of horror stories and test
drive nightmares.
- How good are your at negotiating?
- Consider this. Everyone expects you to lower your
price. So, you'll have to negotiate the transaction on your
vehicle. If you aren't careful, you can find yourself losing money
on the whole deal.
- How long can you be without a vehicle?
- When you sell your vehicle, the new owner will probably
expect to take possession right away. How quickly can you get your
new vehicle?
- Will you provide a warranty? Sell your car as is? What if the
car breaks down 3 days after you sell it?
- Private owners should always sell a vehicle AS IS. The only
warranty should be "3 feet or thirty seconds" :) Why? Do
you really want to be in the business of fixing every last imperfection
in your old vehicle?
- What if your vehicle blows a gasket the day after you sell
it? Are you going to deal with the consequence s?
So, here's what I think:
| Reasons to SELL |
Reasons to
TRADE |
| 1. |
You have lots of time and you can buy a new car while
waiting for your trade to sell. |
1. |
You need a car NOW. You have little time to spend on
selling the car on your own. |
| 2. |
You owe no money on the trade. |
2. |
You owe money on your trade. |
| 3. |
Someone you know wants to buy your car. |
3. |
Your car may be undesirable for some reason: age,
condition, market value, smell, etc. |
| 4. |
You are OK with strangers coming to your house, getting
your phone number and driving your car. |
4. |
You do not want to mess with strangers having your name,
address and phone. |
| 5. |
You are a good negotiator. |
5. |
You are worried that by the time all is said and done, you
will end up getting only a bit more than at a dealer. |
| 6. |
You get a trade value at someplace besides Saturn or
Carmax. |
6. |
You got a firm price from either Saturn of someplace like
Carmax that will buy your car for wholesale regardless or whether or not
your purchase a car. |
| 7. |
You have tons of time. |
7. |
You value your time. |
| 8. |
You understand retail and wholesale and you are confident
you can get retail. |
8. |
You understand wholesale and retail and you are confident
that wholesale is acceptable. |
| 9. |
You have an old, high mile car that you can sell for about
as much as you can trade. |
9. |
You have an old, high mile trade that you can sell for
about as much as you can trade. |
| 10. |
You have cash to put down on a new car. |
10. |
You have no down payment. Using your trade will do
three things: lower your interest costs (!), lower your payment
and build your equity sooner so you can trade again or get out of your
car when you want. |
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